"The rebirth began three weeks ago, when a handful of smaller restaurants in the French Quarter reopened. Scott Boswell was one of the first, deciding to open his new restaurant, Stanley, despite the hurricane. Remembering it now, he's surprised he did it. "I look back on the decision I made to open it, and it was crazy, but in the moment, it felt right," he said. "It was such a success, way beyond what I dreamed. It gave hope to other businesspeople and kept my staff together."

To make it work, Mr. Boswell served basic food - burgers, sausage sandwiches, a veggie burger, and two types of pie - to hungry relief workers, journalists, military personnel, and locals. The food was a far cry from the refined dishes he had served at his other restaurant, Stella. "It was the most difficult burger I've ever made in my life, much more complicated than the complex food we serve at Stella," Mr. Boswell said. Last week, as city services began functioning again, he was able to offer a bigger menu."